Elastic top stocking and method of producing the same



FIGQ7.

March 26, 1940. MCADAMS 2,195,132 I ELASTIC TOP STOCKING AND METHOD OF PRODUCING THE SAME FiledDec. 21, 19 36 3 Sheets-Sheet 1 FIG. 1.

INVENTOR.

H ar' PH M LAdB H-E BY i / ATTORNEYS.

March 1940- H. M ADAMS 2,195,182

ELASTIC TOP STOCKING'AND METHOD OF PRODUCING THE SAME Filed Dec. 21, 1956 3 Sheets-Sheet 2 FIG. 3.

INVAENTOR.

ATTO-RNEYS.

March 2 6, 1940. H. MOADAMS 2,195,182

ELASTIC TOP STOCKING AND METHOD OF PRODUCING THE SAME 3 Sheets-Sheet S FIG. 4.

Filed Dec. 21, 1936 INVENTOR.

Hard 1 1 M Adams.

Patented Mar. 26, 1940 UNITED STATES ELASTIC TOP STOCKING AND METHOD OF PRODUCING THE SAME H arry McAdams, Reading, Pa., assignor to The Nolde and Horst Company,

corporation Reading, Pa., a

Application December 21, 1936, Serial No. 117,045

- 8 Claims.

This invention relates to improvements in means and method for the knitting of elastic toppedstockings.

The primary object of this invention is the provision of an improved elastic topped stocking which simulates somewhat the stocking described in my co-pending application, Serial Number 50, filed October 20, 1936, but embodies an improvement thereover in the welt structure which has additional elasticity and increased stability to maintain the stocking properly upon the leg of a wearer.

A further object of this invention is the provision of an improved method for knitting stockings having elastic welts; the method being an improvement over my co-pending application, Serial Number 106,650.

Other objects and advantages of the invention will be apparent fromthe following detailed description, taken in connection with the accom- Danying drawings forming a part of this specifi cation and in which drawings- Figure 1 is a developed view of the needle setup for the machine, showing the non-elastic and the elastic yarn feeds in position for knitting the welt top of the stocking.

Figure 2 is a fragmentary vertical sectional view taken thru the cylinder of the machine in advance of the regular yarn feed of the machine at the location where an extra elastic, yarn is fed to the needles of the machine.

ure 3 is an enlarged fragmentary view, of g the fabric which may be knitted upon the machine, showing the relation of stitches both insofar as elastic and nom-elastic yarns are con-' cerned .thruoutthe welt, major. top andleg of the stocking. n

Figure 4 is a side elevation of a stocking such as may be knitted in accordance with the pres ent invention; the stocking having thetop adja cent to the welt portion removed to better designate the manner in which the Welt is formed.

Figure 5'is a fragmentary developed view of,

\ the lug set-up upon a'pattern drum of the machine.

ure 6 is an inside elevation of the additional I elastic yarn feed device, also shown in Figure '2,

Figure 7 is an elevation of a' stepped cam used I with the improved machine in a location which will permit jack actuation at dif ferent levels, of

jacks having different length butts.

In the drawings, wherein for the purpose of illustration is shown a preferred embodiment of the improved machine and stocking, the letter A J may generally designate the knitting machine feed location, and it also may be provided with auxiliary feed means to be subsequently described, A set of needles E is provided upon the cylinder C. They are independently movable and are provided with a set of control jacks F. The machine may include a pattern drum G and the usual patterning control means associated with knitting machines in conventional use.

On the machine the stockings are continuously knitted-in stringwork, and are subsequently individually severed and finished to provide a stocking such as shown at H in Figure 4 of thedrawmgs.

As has been described in my above identified co-pending application, Serial Number 106,650, the stocking H of the present invention is also provided with incorporated elastic and inelastic yarns in the top. They are so placed that the top of the stocking will adhere to and conform to the leg of the wearer both circumferentially and longitudinally, in order to efi'iciently hold the stocking against slipping down upon the leg of the w earer To that end the inelastic yarn stitches 'in the top ID of the'stocking H are 7 knitted appreciably looser than thestitches in the leg portion I l of the stocking H, by reason of the fact that the stitches are knitted upon a less numberiof needles of the cylinder of the machine than the number of needles utilized in knitting the leg of the stocking. The elastic'yarn thruout the majorlength of the top H) is pref- -erably knitted in'every other course, or in any course skipped, arrangement desired. The top, 10 of the stocking I-Ihas an improved welt arrangement l2 which is relatively deep and formed by folding the top of the stocking upon itself, inside of the top; this inside fold portion of the Welt l2 having'additional elastic yarn incorpo-.

set-up is such as to permit of the knitting of an 30 formed of the inelastic yarn l3 and which additional elastic yarn in the fold in welt portion |2 of the top of the stocking. To that end, at ,the main feed location the usual heel and toe yarn I3 is used in the knitting of every other course thruout the top of the stocking; the same being fed by a finger l3, operated in the usual manner. At this location it is fed to every third needle of the set E, as shown inFigure 1. These needles receiving yarn I3 are identified on the drawings by numeral I4. At the main feed location an elastic yarn I5 is fed by means of a finger I5 to the same needles l4. These needles M are selected by means of a special cam 6; the construction of which will be subsequently set forth when describing the feed of the additional elastic yarn for knitting the fold in welt portion l2 of the stocking. Of course it is understood that the yarn I3 is inelastic, and the yarn I5 is the usual Lastex. At the main fed location the usual cams l8 are provided to effect the knitting. Wherever cams are shown in the setup but not described, they are to be considered as conventional and functioning in the usual manner well known to those skilled in the art.

It is to beunderstood that stockings are knitted in stringwork and the knitting proceeds from the top thruout the leg and then the foot and toe. The connecting portions of the stockings are knitted substantially as described in my above identified co-pending application and the knitting then commences in the fold in welt portion |2 of the next stocking. It is of course understood that the fold in welt 2 is placed in the position shown in Figure 4 by hand after the stockings are severed. However, in this folded portion I2, which in half hose is one inch or more in depth, not' only is the elastic yarn l5 provided in each stitch in alternate courses, but an additional elastic yarn 20 isfed by a finger 20' to every tenthneedle of the machine, and

knitted in together with the stitches formed on those needles by the yarns I3 and I5 at the main knitting cams.

Referring to the jack set-up F, it is noted that jacks 2| are provided below the needles I 4 thruout the entire set of needles; these jacks 2| having butts 2| thereon at a predetermined level. Every ninth jack below those needles I which are intended to take the elastic yarn 2|! has a butt 2|" longer than the butt 2| of the other jacks.-

The cam I6 is selectively controlled in the usual manner by levers and mechanism such as has been described in my above identified application, and which is so usual that it need not be further described. It is provided with a stepped portion l6 which engages both the long and short butts 2| and 2|" of the jacks 2|, but at the end 25 of the stepped portion IS, the short butts 2| ride all at one level; the longer butts 2|" riding up to the top of the cam l6, as shown in Figure 1. The jacks 2| having the short butts 2| are thus elevated by the cam l5 and force the needles I! up to a level which will enable the books of the needles H to take the yarns l3 and I5, but not the elastic yarn 20. However, the longer butts 2|" riding up cam l5 to the full height of the latter push every ninth needle II to an elevation above the other needles I, so as to take .the additional elastic yarn 20, as shown in Figurel.

Referring to Figure 3 of the drawings, the

by the elastic yarn l5.

have inter-knitted therewith stitches 3| formed Additionally, in every third stitch wherein the yarns 3 and I5 are knitted the additional elastic yarn 20 is also knitted to form the stitches 32.

, Continuing the description of the method of knitting the stocking, it is to be noted that two courses of the stocking are knitted at each revolution of the machine;-particularly thruout the top of the stocking. The needles move in the direction indicated in Figure l of the drawings, and at the auxiliary feed location of the machine a jack actuating cam 35 is positioned for operation upon the jacks 2|. This cam operates on all of the jacks 2| and thus elevates all of the needles l4, that is, every third needle; said needles being elevated as shown in Figure 1 to a location where they may take the inelastic yarn 36. A knitting cam 31 is provided for knitting the yarn 36 upon the needles, and thus form the inelastic yarn courses 4|), thruout the top of the stocking; these courses 40 preferably alternating with the courses wherein theelastic yarns are knitted.

As before mentioned, the extra welt elastic yarn 20 is withdrawn after it has been knitted thruout the length of the fold in welt portion l2 of the stocking, and the top I0 is knitted thruout the desired length utilizing the elastic yarn -|5.

in alternate courses.

It is of course understood that because only every third needle of the machine is utilized during the knitting of the top of the stocking, the stitches in the top will be relatively large and loose. The tension on the yarn fed thruout the top of the stocking is not appreciably greater than the tension on the yarn of the leg of the stocking, altho the tension of the elastic yarns fed thruout the'top of the stocking is such as to hold the top of the stocking in substantially the appearance shown in Figure 4 of the drawings. Due to the coarseness of the stitches in the top I0 of the stocking, in comparison to the fine stitches thruout the leg of the stocking, the former will present a ribbed effectand will permit ready lateral and longitudinal stretching; the elastic yarns returning the top of the stocking to its original shape and insuring both a circumferential and lonigtudinal gripping upon the leg of the wearer.

When the course designated at 50 in Figure 3 of the drawings is reached, the yarn 36 is not onlyfed to every third needle utilized during knitting of the previously knitted courses in the top, but the adjacent needles, normally idle during knitting of the top, are elevated. These adjacent needles designated at 5| in Figure .1 of the drawings, are provided with jacks 52 below them having butts 52 ata different level than the butts of the jacks 2|. A cam 54 is provided at a level to act on these butts 52' and elevate the jacks 52 for the purpose of elevating the needles 5| thereabove to a position where they may take the yarn 36 together with the needles H also elevated at that level. It is only at the auxiliary feed that the needles 5| are elevated. These needles 5| are not utilized in the courses wherein the elastic yarns are knitted. At the auxiliary feed, beginning with the course 50, which forms the juncture between the top of the stocking and the leg, the needles II and 5| at the auxiliary feed take the yarn 36 and the stitches caught on the needles 5| are formed into draw stitches in the following manner:

' are not elevated at this time. feed block the yarn 36 which is-caught on only During the same revolution of the cylinder that the needles l4 and 5| are elevated to take the yarn 36, the cam l6 elevates the needles 14 for taking the inelastic and elastic yarns I3 and I 5 respectively, and it is noted that the. needles 5| Thus, at the main the needles M will cast off and the yarn 36 remains hung on the buried needles 5| until,we reach the auxiliary knitting cam .31, where the needles 5| are again elevated to take the yarn 36 and the previous stitches on .the needles 5| are cast off to form the draw stitches shown at 60 in Figure 3 of the drawings. I

It will be noted from Figure 3 that at the juncture of the leg portion II with the top H] of the stocking, the stitches formed are quite closely tucked together to present a neat section without openings. After four courses are knitted at this juncture; producing two rows of draw stitches, as shown in Figure 3, the elastic yarn I5 is withdrawn and all of the needles of the machine are elevated at the regular feed of the machine by the stitch cams acting in the usual manner. Then approximately four courses, shown at 10 in the drawings are knitted, utilizing the inelastic yarn I3. Thereafter, the silk inelastic leg yarn is dropped into action thru its finger 80 and the yarn I3 is withdrawn. The leg yarn is fed to all of the needles of the machine in the ordinary manner. I

The stitch cams at the main and auxiliary feeds function in the usual manner.

It will of course be understood that I may depart from the specific arrangement of course placement of the elastic yarns, shown in the drawings, since it is entirely feasible to utilize the elastic yarn in every fourth or every fifth course instead of every other course. It is also quite possible torearrange the knitting of the elastic yarns in the fold in portion I2 of the welt.

Referring to the finger 20" for feed of the additional elastic yarn 20, as shown in Figures 2 and 6 of the drawings, a frame is mounted upon the latch ring D for slidably supporting the finger 20 for vertical reciprocation. A spring 9| normally urges the finger into feed location, as shown in dotted lines in Figure 2. The finger 20 is controlled by connecting mechanism 92.

off of the pattern drum G.

Referring to the lug layout upon the pattern drum G, the lug arrangement along the dot and dash line indicated at I!!!) in Figure 5 of the drawings is used to actuate the jack cam 54; the lug arrangement along the dot and dash line I0! is used to actuate the cam shown at H14 in Figure l of the drawings; the lug arrangement along the dot and dash line I05 is used to actuate the stitch cam 31; the lug arrangement along the line I0! is used to actuate the elastic yarn finger 20 above described; the lug arrangement along the line I08 is used to actuate the jack dividing cam IS; the lug arrangement along the line I09 is used o actuate a cam I 0 provided for lowering every ninth needle which receives the elastic yarn 20, in the relation shown in Figure 1 of the drawings; the lug arrangement along the line I l I is. utilized to actuate the cam 35, and the lug arrangementalong the line I I2 is used to actuate the needle lowering cam H4 shown in Figure 1 of the drawings. This cam I I4 lowers the inactive needles, during knitting of the top of the stocking, at the main knitting cam block, so as to avoid the cams of'the latter.

The actuation ofthe elastic and non-elastic yarn fingers, at the main and auxiliaryfeeds of the machine, is, taken care of in the manner set forth in my above identified co-pending application, Serial Number 106,650, filed October 20,

The improved elastic top stocking of the present invention has all of the improved features of the elastic top stocking set forth in my above identifled application, and, additionally, the inturned welt portion of the stocking is such as to render the top of thegstocking more durable and more effective. I I Various changes in the shape, size and arrange mentof parts, and departure from the steps of the method herein set forth maybe made without departing from the spirit of the invention or the knitted stocking including foot, leg and top portions, the top and leg portions being formed of inelastic yarn with the leg portion having a greater number of wale lines and the stitches of the courses of which are more finely drawn than those of the top portion, elastic yarn interknitted in spaced courses of the top portion, and-an additional elastic yarn interknitted in relatively spaced courses at the welt of the top of the stocking.

3. As an article of manufacture, a seamless knitted stocking including foot, leg and top portions, the top and leg portions being formed of inelastic yarn with the leg portion having a greater number of wale lines and the stitches of the courses of which are more finely drawn than those of the top portion, elastic yarn interknitted in spaced courses of thetop portion, and an additional elastic yarn interknitted in relatively' spaced courses at the welt of the top of the stocking, the said welt wherein the additional elastic yarn is interknitted being inturned upon the top portion to provide a relatively long welt.

4. The steps in the method of knitting stockings which includes the feeding of an inelastic yarnto selected needles of .a set of needles to provide a top portion, feeding an elastic yarn upon said selected needles together with said inelastic yarn and knitting said yarns together in only occasional courses of the top, knitting together with said elastic yarn and said inelastic yarn a second elastic yarn on said needles in.

said inelastic yarn and the first mentioned elastic yarn a second elastic yarri or a less number'of selected needles than receive the aforementioned yarns to provide an elastic welt for the top portion.

6. The steps in the method of knitting a stocking or like article having a top portion and a leg portion which includes integrally knitting the leg portion and top portion, with the latter having a less number of wale lines and with the stitches more loosely and coarsely drawn than the stitches formed in the leg portion, and during the knitting of the top portion interknitting an elastic yarn in occasional courses, with a greater number of rounds of elastic yarn directly at the Welt at the top portion than elsewhere in the top portion.

7 The steps in the method of knitting a seam- 1 less stocking which includes the knitting of the welt of a top portion of the stocking upon only predetermined needles of a set of needles with elastic and inelastic yarns, knitting the remainder of the top portion upon a greater number of needles but less than the entire number of needles with elastic and inelastic yarns, and knitting a leg portion of the stocking upon all of the needles with inelastic yarn. v

8. As an article of manufacture a seamless knitted stocking having a leg portion of inelastic yarn and a top portion of inelastic yarn having fewer wales than the number of wales in the leg portion and with the stitches of the top portion more loosely drawn than the stitches of the leg portion, said top portion having elastic yarn incorporated in the lower section thereof and elastic yarn incorporated in the upper section thereof in a difierent relation, said elastic yarns being incorporated so as to give to the top portion both a longitudinal and lateral elastic stretch.

HARRY MoADAMS. 

